Fur & Fashion

Fur Fashion

Fur and shearling made their mark across all four leading AW16 fashion weeks, with an estimated 70% of collections featuring the natural material overall. Considering that fur was also hugely prominent during the menswear AW16 collections earlier in the year, it is clear that both designers and consumers are enjoying using and wearing natural materials in greater numbers.

From the eye-catching coats of BCBGMAXAZRIA and Michael Kors, to the subtle craftsmanship from Carolina Herrera, New York Fashion Week saw 91 of 156 designers (58%) craft beautiful collections with fur. Coach 1941 delivered an oversized coat that echoed a similar piece that featured in its menswear AW 16 collection, whilst DKNY crafted a slouched vest-like dress in brilliant black fur.

With less fur present from shows in London, compared to Paris, Milan and New York, it’s love of the natural material is on the rise, with an estimated 37 of the 79 designers (47%) incorporating fur and shearling into their collections, contradicting figures that were pushed out by animal rights bodies. This is an increase on last year’s London collections that saw 20% designers use fur in the AW 15 collections, according to a TNS poll.

Stand out fur items were Roksanda’s simple yet elegant long line pieces and Christopher Kane’s extravagant, deconstructed looking fur coats. However, it was Alexander McQueen’s return to London after 15 years that took centre stage. With McQueen’s collection set in a dreamscape, slick tailored leather coats embroidered with butterflies created a simple canvas for large, subtle fur lapels to rest upon.

The biggest impact that fur and shearling presented it self upon was during Milan fashion week, with 55 of the 65 designers (85%) crafting beautiful garments with the materials; from Gucci’s oversized pink coat, fur lined loafers and collaborations with Gucci Ghost, to Roberto Cavalli’s gothic-inspired draped coats and intricately detailed ponchos. Many designers used fur across the majority of their collections, with Fendi, Gucci and Prada all creating cuffs, coats and accessories with the versatile material across a high number of their pieces.

Fur played a key role in the Paris shows with just over half of the French designer’s collections (55%) using the material. The likes of Chloe’, Lanvin and Rochas all went with an oversized trend that saw pelts crafted into long-flowing puffed coats to give a tough city look ready for any weather condition.

In response to the extremely successful fashion weeks, Mark Oaten CEO of the IFF explained “To see fur being used in the AW collections in ever more creative ways is testament to the versatility and continued appeal of this wonderful natural material.

Oaten also went on to describe that the stereotypical fur garments are in the past with fur being developed in a number of exciting ways.

“I’ve talked for a long time now about how fur fashion is so much more than a clichéd brown mink coat. Designers are increasingly pushing the boundaries as the industry develops new techniques, allowing them to inject new excitement and energy into fur fashion and broadening its appeal globally.”